Bando to Anraku-ji, Day 2 of 8

N.B. I was in a mood when I wrote this, so it will differ from the rest of my posts somewhat. Additionally, some of the more interesting photos would have been within the temple grounds. But as those are active places of worship, it is rude to take photos. So I’ve tried to make due with what interesting sights I could outside of the temples themselves.

First day of the pilgrimage and it’s already too hot out as I leave. Thankfully the first temple is conveniently located next door. I’ve read up on the proper etiquette in temples, but first need my pilgrim’s gear, the most important of which (to me at least) is the nokyo-cho book wherein, after having prayed to/paid your respects to that temple’s main deity and then to a separate hall dedicated to the Great Teacher or Kōbō Daishi1, pilgrims can obtain a unique nokyo shuin2 at each temple. And if there’s one thing I love, it’s a passport stamp (literally and figuratively). Whilst here I also purchase a kongo-zue3 and a nenju.4

Already having spent enough, I forego the traditional white coat, sash, and sedge hat (traditional conical hat), mostly for practicality reasons. With temperatures already reaching too high for eight in the morning, I’m sweating profusely as I start my trek. On advice from the tour company I went with and their extensive guide booklet, I stop at a nearby 7-Eleven (see previous comments) and grab an extra electrolyte drink and some snacks for the road and a later lunch.

Soon after I arrive at the second temple, pay my respects to their deity and Kobo Daishi, receive my nokyo shuin, and continue on. Temple #3 isn’t too much farther along, and I repeat the process becoming more comfortable with each time I visit a new temple. But comfort isn’t something I’m likely to be experiencing for much longer.

The fourth temple is about 5.5km away and it’s growing progressively hotter. The Japanese Government issued a warning for the excessive heat, urging everyone to not partake in overexertive activities during the day. But I’ve walked the Camino, and this is a relatively easy walk for me with a very mild elevation gain. I’ll be fine I try to convince myself. What hubris.

By the time I reach the fourth temple, I’m struggling. Not in a “I haven’t exercised nearly enough kind of way” but more in a “I think I might actually be having heat stress” kind of way. By now I’ve finished the first liter of electrolyte drink and the liter of water I was carrying. Having never carried more than two liters on me during the Camino over much larger distances, I didn’t think I’d need more than this. But as I start to drink my second liter of electrolyte drink, I realize three liters wasn’t going to be enough.

I stop longer at this temple than all the others, as I need time to recover. There’s a shaded area between two buildings where they’ve set up an electric fan. I’ve already doused my neck gaiter in water and as I sit in front of the fan, desperately trying to cool off, I take stock of the situation. One of the workers tells me the 5th temple has a vending machine, and it’s not that far away and downhill, so I set out after I’ve recovered sufficiently.

The gravity assist as well as the slight breeze that picked up, boosts my spirits a bit, and things don’t seem nearly as grave as they did previously. Within almost no time at all I’ve reached the fifth temple. Here I re-soak my neck gaiter and have a bit of a snack. I’m still sweating, which is a good sign since I haven’t moved into heat stroke territory. But unfortunately there is no vending machine. I’m about halfway through my electrolyte drink, and at this point I don’t feel too bad all things considered. But I need more fluids, and I’m not going to find them here. Looking at the route ahead, it’s a flat 5km to the sixth and final temple of the day, but more importantly, along the way there’s a 7-Eleven which would be my salvation.

At this point in the day, the sun is directly overhead and beating down on me ferociously. I didn’t realize until too late that there was a small gap between the top of my shirt, and the bottom of my neck gaiter. As soon as I realize my mistake, I rub in sunscreen, and apply it to my arms as well which are starting to turn red. I should have done this earlier I scold myself. The heat is getting intense, but it’s the humidity that makes it feel so much worse. Having lived in arid climates the past 15+ years, I am not used to the misery that is saturated air. And it’s starting to show.

I arrive at the air-conditioned 7-Eleven and take my time perusing the aisles. I don’t want to take too long, because dallying only means I’ll arrive later, and I very much want to be done with today. I grab two more liters of water and two more liters of electrolyte drink. I transfer one liter of water to my water bottle, and start chugging the second to rehydrate. I realize I haven’t had to urinate today, despite how much fluid I’ve been consuming. That can’t be good.

With no other choice than to press on, I make my way back to the route and continue along. So close and yet so far away. I stop under the shade of a tree and chug more electrolyte drink. My backpack has more empty plastic bottles in it than anything else at this point. I stop again under a shaded canopy just to not be in the sun. This is brutal. But I’m almost there.

Eventually I arrive at the last temple of the day. I sit on a bench under an awning near a fountain and just rest. I’m weary and light-headed and I really should have urinated more by now, but I’m still sweating. I’ve never been so happy to be sweating before. After the day I’ve had, I skip visiting their deity and Kobo Daishi, and head straight inside to get my nokyo shuin2. I feel bad about breaking etiquette, but not that bad. I need to rest.

The entrance to the accommodations is across the courtyard. I take off my shoes in the entrance way and exchange them for a pair of slippers, grab my room key, and head up to my room. Since we’re staying on temple grounds for pilgrims, the rooms are austere. I’m just glad to be done with the day. I’m even more glad that my room has AC. I lower the temperature, and just sit in under it. For a long time. I made it, but I was foolish. If I ever thought I was in real danger, the tour company was just a call away, and would have gladly arranged a taxi to pick me up and deliver me to the end. I think it was that safety net, combined with my own particular brand of stubbornness, that made me push on. Was it worth it? I’m not really sure.

When I feel normal again, and after finishing even more fluids, I shed my sweaty clothes, don the yukata that was left for me in my room, grab my towel and head down to the communal baths. This is to be my first experience at an onsen,5 and while I love a hot soak, the extreme temperatures make me less excited than I was before setting off to Japan. But I’m a mess and need to clean up, so I press on.

Communal bathing is not something we’re used to in the West. The spas are segregated by gender, and upon entry you disrobe and leave everything but your small washing towel in a basket, and enter the baths naked. There, low to the ground, are a number of stools in front of low-lying shower heads. Another Pilgrim is already in there scrubbing himself. I plop down a number of stools away start washing myself. Doing so sitting down, not to mention in shared company is an interesting experience, and a younger me would have paled at the idea. At this point in my life, and after the day I had, no fucks were given.

I washed away the grime and sweat, and when I was sufficiently clean and rinsed of all soap, I made my way into the soaking pool. This would be amazing in winter I think, but now my first and only thought is damn this is hot. Whatever. I sit down in it anyway, and acclimate quicker than I expect. After a bit the other Pilgrim joins me. As is custom, we exchange no words. I’m fine with this. He leaves. I’m not as hot as I expected to be, but I also know I had a stressful day, so I opt to leave earlier than perhaps normal not wanting to overdo it.

Resting in my room, re-clothed, I take stock of the day. I’m burned and in the process of rehydrating and tomorrow is supposed to be just as bad. So I decide to give myself the day off. I contact the tour company and explain my situation. They happily arranged for a taxi to collect me the next morning and take me to the next temple, and thence to my accommodation. I’m discouraged, because I don’t like to think I’m susceptible to these things, but I am.

After dinner, I skip the service at the temple, and just rest. Tomorrow’s a new day, with another adventure, but at least I won’t be sweating all the liquid I consume.

I did start urinating again, so that’s something.

Kūkai is posthumously called Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師, “The Grand Master who Propagated the Dharma”). During his life he founded the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism in Japan, after having travelled to China.

a unique hand drawn calligraphy “stamp” made in a nokyo-cho book.

a staff, said to represent Kōbō Daishi himself

Buddhist rosary bracelet

traditional Japanese hot spring/thermal bath, where one partakes in communal bathing before entering the hot water.